While, as a beauty editor, I pride myself on having a diverse and varied fragrance collection, I have to admit, when it comes to my favourite perfumes I have a penchant for one fragrance family in particular—smoky perfumes. I’m unsure whether this love affair stems from a memory I’ve long since locked away (a master perfumer once told me that it’s for this reason we feel drawn to certain fragrance notes), if it’s because I love to be able to wear the same scent as my partner (some couples wear matching outfits, I like matching scents) or, maybe, it’s simply a perfume power move on my part. Whatever the reason, smoky fragrances are some of my favourites out there and, over the years, I’ve gotten to know most of them.
Because, you see, not all smoky fragrances are the same. While some contain smoke in its most literal sense, many fragrances also bring together more subtle smoky elements, courtesy of leather, tobacco and even incense. The beauty of smoky perfumes is that they can come in any and every form—floral perfumes can be smoked up, creamy perfumes can have a smoky depth and even citrus scents can come with added smoulder. Whatever way you look at it, smoky scents are power perfumes. When paired with resinous notes like amber or sweet tangy rum, they combine to create fragrances with a depth and darkness that smell expensive. Maybe that’s the real reason I’m so obsessed with smoky fragrances, they just smell rich.
(Image credit: Jazzria Harris)
From fragrances that smell like you’ve stumbled into the back room of a private members club to perfumes that smell like a campfire in an exotic location, these are the best smoky fragrances chosen by someone who loves them all (me)…
1. Maison Margiela Replica By The Fireplace
(Image credit: Space NK)
For an accessible route into smoky fragrances, I’m a big fan of Replica By The Fireplace. The strongest note is that of vanilla, which wraps you in a hug of comforting warmth. Rather than being overtly sweet, however, it has a subtle depth and smokiness that comes from a combination of chestnut and guaiac wood. The resulting blend is dark yet not intimidating and so easy to wear.
2. Dior Tobacolor
(Image credit: DIOR)
Whenever a man asks me for a fragrance recommendation, I gravitate towards Dior’s Tobacolor, but it’s a scent I love to wear myself as well. Sweet yet sophisticated, it contains notes of rich tobacco leaf, gourmand honey and delicate spices which create a heady yet comforting blend. This is a fragrance that demands to be worn in dark, moody rooms while sipping winter drinks, and I love it.
3. Floral Street Black Lotus
(Image credit: Floral street)
If you’re looking for a moodier take on a rose scent, Floral Street’s Black Lotus is it. It’s sweet, with rose and black cherry notes, yet dark and brooding at the same time with a leathery smokiness that turns this floral perfume on its head. My one word of warning: use it sparingly as it can be overpowering if you’re a little too spritz happy.
4. Le Lion de Chanel
(Image credit: Chanel)
Chanel’s Le Lion is definitely a marmite fragrance, but if you’re looking for something heavy with smoky leather notes, you need to give it a try. Inspired by the carnal nature of the lion, it opens fresh and slightly zesty, however this quickly dissipates into warming resinous notes with a hint of muskiness. This is a scent that I love more each time I smell it.
5. Infiniment Coty Paris Apres L’amour
(Image credit: Liberty)
In my opinion, Apres L’amour offers an elegant take on a smoky scent. While many on this list are dark and moody, this smells light and aromatic thanks to a combination of tobacco accord and ginger. It isn’t spicy or zesty ,but rather the ginger softens the smoky element making it light and perfect for everyday wear.
6. Kayali Oudgasm Smoky Oud | 07
(Image credit: Harrods)
Part of Kayali’s oud collection, Smoky Oud 07 is punchy and intoxicating. Spicy saffron top notes remain as the fragrance settles into layers of creamy jasmine, followed by notes of oud and smoky guaiac wood. This is a smoky scent that feels alive rather than lulling you into it.
7. Akro Smoke
(Image credit: LookFantastic)
I’m sure it comes as no surprise that a fragrance called smoke made it onto this list. Akro’s smoke literally smells like what is says on the tin, so it definitely won’t appeal to everyone. But, if you want a scent that bottles the feeling of sitting around a campfire, this is as close as it’s gets. Think less sweet tobacco smoke and more burning wood.
8. Serge Lutens Écrin de Fumée
(Image credit: LookFantastic)
Serge Lutens Ecrin de Fumée combines the addictive scents of many vices into one bottle. There’s smokiness courtesy of tobacco leaf, a hint of dark chocolate and most strongly the scent of sweet dark rum. While it does smell strongly like a men’s scent it feels like an act of defiance to spritz this before a night out, which makes me love it even more.
9. Perfumer H Saddle
(Image credit: Perfumer H)
The aptly named Saddle is a comforting masculine-inspired scent that smells like the perfect combination of worn-in leather and incense. It smells like a leather jacket that’s travelled the world, making it a unique take on a holiday scent.
10. Jo Loves Smoked Plum & Leather
(Image credit: Jo Loves)
Although this fragrance is called smoked plum and leather, it definitely leans more towards the smoky end of the scale. Opening with a leathery smokiness, it then develops into a subtle spiciness from the cinnamon. The plum actually feels like more of an afterthought, adding depth rather than fruity or sweetness.
11. Tom Ford Ebène Fumé
(Image credit: LookFantastic)
Woody accents and smoky notes go hand in hand, so it’s no surprise Ebène Fumé smells absolutely delicious. Its smoky notes are thick with incense and black pepper which lends it a warming quality. This is definitely a cosy smoky scent that draws you in.
